Bolton Pest Control

Bed Bugs Are Back In Lancashire

Bed Bugs Are Back in Lancashire – One of the most feared and misunderstood pests known to man is the bed bug (Cimex lectularius). How many of us dropped off to sleep at night as young ones with the words of our parents in our ears ‘sleep tight and don’t let the bed bugs bite’?

Bed bugs probably started to feed on man at about the time we moved into caves, the ‘bat bugs’ Cimex pilosellus and Cimex pipistrella primarily feed on bats and it is probable that bat feeding species of bug evolved to dine on human blood when our ancesters started living in bat infested caves.

Until the invention of DDT in the early 20th century bed bugs were common non-paying guests in most low quality dwellings.

The later part of the 20th century saw pest control companies dealing with very few bed bug problems indeed, their presence being largely confined to inexpenisve vacation camps and student accomodation etc.

Many people mistake dust mites, which are not visible to the naked eye, with bed bugs which very definitely are.

Adult bedbugs are reddish-brown, about a quarter of an inch in size and decidely swollen after a feed of our blood.

They have an incomplete metamorphosis which means that the nymphs are just smaller copies of the adult, they don’t have a pupal stage like fleas or flies.

Bed bugs typically feed on human blood every 7 – 10 days, coming out in the hours before dawn and locating their prey by sensing the exhaled CO2 from our breath and when nearing in on their target, body heat.

In the absence of a convenient human to feed on they can stay dormant for periods of up to 18 months.

Signs of a bed bug infestation are spots of blood on bedding and on the underside of mattresses and many people can react badly to their bites.

The early 21st century has seen bed bug numbers increase across the world, the easy availability of international travel and economic migration have both been blamed for the come back.

What is certain is that thet are now making a real return not only in low quality housing but high class hotels, schools and often hospitals.

One London borough reports a doubling of bed bug call-outs each year from 1995 – 2001.

Just one night away in an infested hotel is all it takes, they catch a ride in your suitcases or bags. Pest control firms are also now reporting cases of transport related bed bug infestations on tubes, trains and buses so a single journey to work on an infested bus or train can be sufficient to spread the infestation to your own home.

They are an expensive pest to eradictate as contrary to popular mythology they do not just live in beds. They hide any nook and cranny conveniently close to a sleeping human, beds, electrical sockets, televisions, bed-side telephones etc and treatment is both difficult and time consuming. They have even been found living beneath the toe-nails of infirm persons and in the folds of flesh on heavily over-weight people.

They are not a pest that can be tackled by an amateur and a professional will almost certainly be |required.

Ken Chadwick B.A. (Hons) is a Pest Controller and author on pest control issues. For further information please visit http://www.waspgo.co.uk

That concludes this article entitled – Bed Bugs Are Back In Lancashire

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• Don’t let the bed bugs bite… (guardian.co.uk)

The Return Of The Rat – Our Most Reviled Pest Thrives

The Return Of The Rat – Our Most Reviled Pest Thrives – The rat population of Britain is currently at an all time high, fortnightly waste collections, lack of sewer baiting and the late night takeaway are all cited as culprits in this rodent explosion, but what do we really know about the humble creatures that thrive in our sewers and induce almost universal fear and loathing in all who encounter them.

Rats are not native to Europe or North America but originate in Asia and almost certainly arrived in Europe as stowaways on trading ships, indeed the common name for Rattus rattus is the ship or black rat.

In Asian folklore the rat is a prominent character, in Hindu mythology the elephant-headed god Ganesh is accompanied by a rat wherever he travels. An offering to Ganesh and his companion Vahana the rat is therefore an important part of Hindu worship.

To the Romans the sighting of a white rat was considered to be lucky but if you found that rats had chewed your belongings then you should postpone any business affairs that you were planning that day or they would surely fail.

Reviled in the west, the rat is revered in Chinese mythology, being part of the Chinese zodiac and respected for its quick wit and resourcefulness. The rat is considered good luck in China & Japan where it is credited with bringing the gift of rice to the world.

To the Polynesians rats were an easily bred and transportable source of food

In 1347 the Mongols laying siege to the Crimean city of Caffa began to succumb to a mysterious illness that killed swiftly and mercilessly. In order to weaken the city the Mongols catapulted the bodies of their own dead over the city walls and within days the inhabitants of Caffa also fell prey to the disease.

However, a group of Italian merchants were allowed to leave the city and return to Italy, and probably unknowingly took with them the Black Death, Yersinia pestis.

The ensuing plague raged throughout the continent reaching Britain in 1348 with up to 90% mortality in some areas and it reappeared in Europe in every generation for over four hundred years.

We now know of course that the rat was a carrier, or to be more precise the fleas that the rats carried on their bodies were the agents of plague transmission.

Indeed whilst being in no way established in fact, it is possible that the children’s story of the Pied Piper of Hamlyn is an allegory of the plague, it certainly indicates that the rat population was booming at the time.

Every cloud however has a silver lining and the survivors of the 14^th century plagues found that they could now demand higher wages and better conditions as the shortage of workers in the wake of plague deaths created a seller’s market for labour. The rise of the Yeoman Farmer and the British class system could be argued to be attributed to the humble rat.

Into modern times and the Black Rat is now almost extinct in the British Isles, having been replaced from the 18^th century onwards by the Brown or Norway Rat (Rattus norvegicus) and it is this creature that now thrives in our sewers, on our streets and in our homes and it is when we encounter it there that it creates most revulsion.

A typical rat weighs around 200 – 300 grams or half to three quarters of a pound, and has a tail around the same length as its body, often making it appear bigger than it really is.

One of the primary functions of a rat’s tail is thermo-regulation; it uses its tail to dissipate body heat. When a rat’s temperature falls it restricts blood flow into its tail.

Rats are rodents, the word comes from the Latin ‘Rodere’ meaning ‘to gnaw or eat away’, aptly named as their teeth never stop growing and they gnaw on hard objects to keep them sharp, unfortunately this can often include electrical wiring and water pipes. A rat’s teeth can penetrate mild steel.

Often a rat will move into a loft or roof void looking for somewhere safe to give birth, being excellent climbers the interior of the cavity wall of the building is a common route, especially if there is an underground breach in the drainage system.

They are sexually mature at around 13 weeks and have a gestation period of about 20 –22 days giving birth typically to 7 – 10 young per litter.

They are naturally shy and nocturnal creatures said to suffer from ‘neophobia’ a fear of anything new in their environment.

Often the first signs that a house is infested will be the patter of tiny feet on the upstairs plasterboard ceilings, although with the modern trend for roof insulation an infestation can often go undetected for quite some time. In homes with floorboards gnawing will often be heard in the sub-floor area.

Their need to eat will often betray their presence, food stored in cupboards will be taken, cereal packets chewed, chocolate and crisps are favourites, although a rat often has a diet that we would find somewhat strange.

The rat has no ability to taste ‘bitter’ foods so it can quite happily munch away on a bar of soap for the fat content. Pest controllers use this as a safety feature and all rat poison is coated in a bitter substance that the rats can’t taste but which would make it totally unpalatable to a dog or a child.

Although the rat is no longer a plague carrier it does come with a number of unwelcome traits. It is a carrier of a number of diseases including Murine Typhus, Salmonella and Weil’s Disease, spread from rats’ urine, which unfortunately usually claims at least one life in Britain each year.

If you have a rat infestation then you have a legal duty to remedy it and in extreme circumstances forced entry to your property can be made against your will.

As a final sting in the tail, many household insurance policies specifically exclude damage by vermin so if a rat chews your wiring and the house burns down you may find yourself without insurance cover.

Hated, despised and unloved the humble rat continues to share and shape our environment in ways that we do not see or appreciate and despite our best effort the rat and man will always co-exist.

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• The Black Death in Europe (weuropeanhistory.suite101.com)
• Return of the Plague (time.com)

How To Get Rid Of Ants In Your House Permanently – Spring Special Offer

Get Rid Of Ants In Your House Permanently – spring is here and with it comes the annual scourge of ants which for many people can be nothing short of a nightmare.

In North West England the summers of 2007 & 2008 were very poor and the ants did not thrive, a respite for those who suffer ants in the house on an annual basis but already 2009 looks like it will be the summer of the ant as calls are being received already.

Those that suffer know that flying ants in the house can be a nightmare, almost impossible to cure as the nests are hidden in cavity walls and beneath floors, and the only way to destroy the nest is to kill the queen. This is all but impossible using powders and potions from hardware stores.

There are a variety of new techniques available to pest controllers now which are highly effective in dealing with ant infestations.

These range from using micro-encapsulated insecticides which stick to the worker ants’ bodies and are taken back into the nest and a special technique which effectively puts an impenetrable barrier around the house which the ants cannot cross.

This involved drilling tiny holes into the cavity walls from the outside of the property and blowing in an insecticidal powder under pressure which forms a barrier that the ants cannot cross.

This will effectively prevent the ants inside from foraging outside and dooms the colony.

We are able to give a three year guarantee which is then extendable indefinitely in periods of three years by topping up the powder.

There is no smell or odour and it is perfectly safe for children and pets and can be done whilst the property is occupied.

For a short period we are offering a 30% discount on our normal prices so for a limited period the costs would be as follows

Semi-detached house £175.00

*Detached house £225

*Terraced House £125

Prices apply throughout South Lancashire, Greater Manchester and North Cheshire, further afield work will require a supplement.

All with three year guarantee including unlimited *free call outs

On terraced & semi-detached we can only guarantee the treated walls, so if they are coming in through the untreated party wall there is little we can do unless your neighbours agree to treatment.

To have a chat with us or arrange a free site survey to establish if your premises are suitable call us now on Free phone 0800 019 8382 or 01257 230637

Wasps’ Nests Destroyed in Bolton £32.00

Wasps’ Nests Destroyed in Bolton £32.00 – Bolton Pest Control destroy wasps’ nests in the Bolton area for a fixed fee of £32.00. We work seven days per week and do not charge exra for weekend or evening calls. Call us now on 01204 689361.

The annoying wasp season is almost with us once more, what would summer be without our old friends the wasps to pester us as we enjoy our evening barbeques?

The biology of the wasp means they are rarely seen much before July as until then only the wasp queen is in the nest.

In late March or early April the over-wintering queens leave their hibernating sites to find nesting places which could be in a hole in the ground, a hollow tree or artificial structures such as chimneys eaves, lofts and attics, garden sheds etc.

The new queen starts to construct her nest with a papery material that she makes by chewing small pieces of wood mixed with saliva; this is called Wasp paper.

She will raise the first few workers by herself and those workers will then carry on the building of the nest and feeding the immature Wasps to follow.

Nest building starts in earnest in June and will reach its maximum in size in September, when 5 – 30,000 workers may be in the nest. These workers will gather food up to 400 metres from the nest. The size of wasp colonies will vary from year to year, the severity of the previous winter is probably the main factor.

In the mid-September the newly produced queens mate and leave the nest to hibernate, the rest of the nest dies out and the nest is never used again.

Individuals react differently to being stung by wasps; some are hardly affected, while others endure considerable pain and discomfort and a few become seriously allergic to being stung, which in some cases results in sudden death due to anaphylactic shock.
Control
It is advisable to let a professional Pest Controller deal with a Wasps’ nest for the reasons stated above. An insecticide will be injected into the entrance to the nest. Returning wasps will carry the insecticide into the centre of the nest and within a few hours all wasps should be dead.

It is foolish to allow a wasps’ nest to go full term as the resultant queens produced by the nest will invariably nest nearby in the following spring resulting in many more nests the following year. For this reason several nests are often found clustered together in an area a locality.

Wasps’ Nests Destroyed in Bolton £3250

The rat traps are basically used as one of the rodent control products. These rodent control devices can be used in all places where there are lots of problems caused by rats, it is essential to use the rodent control methods. These rodent control rat traps are basically used to trap the rats and mice and kill them slowly or instantly. These rodent control rat traps are basically constructed to stop mice breeding and to stop mice problems. These rat traps also help to stop mice population. It is not easier to catch mice and stop mice from making problems, so specific devices must be used to catch mice. These rat and mouse traps are made from metallic parts and require careful handling. These mouse traps require to be kept at far places away from the reach of children and pet animals. Some of the rodent control rats traps are the humane traps, snap traps, live catching mouse traps. Apart from these types of rat traps, there also exist the electronic rat traps. Let us discuss about the electronic rat traps.

 

 The electronic rat traps do not require any sort of toxic and poisonous pesticides to be mixed with baits. These electronic rat traps also do not cause any sort of pollution in the environment. This rodent control electronic trap which can be used to stop mice breeding as well as stop mice breeding consists of a zigzag tunnel, four AA batteries, a green indicator light and two metal plates. All these equipments are equipped in the cabin. Let us now discuss about the way it works. The bait is placed inside the cabin and the smell produced by the bait attracts the rats to enter the tunnel. The bait is placed on the two metal plates. The metal plates are kept charged with the help of four AA batteries which are capable of exterminating up to fifty rats. As the rat enters the tunnel and when it tries to get the bait from the metal plates, it will be immediately destroyed because the metal plates deliver high voltage electrical charge. Thus the green indicator light installed on the top of the cabin will glow to indicate that a rat has been trapped and killed. The green indicator is capable of remaining on twenty four hours round the clock after the rat is being trapped. There is also a hinged door which can be opened to dispose off the killed rat to far off places without touching the corpse.

 

The advantages of using electronic rat traps are as follows. These rat traps do not cause any sort of dirt or horrible scene by killing them as compared to other rat traps. This rat trap is one of the eco-friendly products. This electronic rat traps can be easily installed in all places without the fear of kids and pet animals. The four batteries create the sufficient power to kill the rat. The twenty four hour green indicator help to show that the rat has been killed and glows till the killed rat has been disposed. Thus it does not produce any kind of air pollution. Apart from these, the electronic rat traps are available at affordable prices in the market.

Author is an SEO and provide methods to repel and kill rats. To know more about stop mice and rodent control visit buyscram.com

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“My Home Is Infested. Is Killing Fleas and Ticks Difficult?”Killing Cat Fleas and Ticks at Home can be made easier with the following 7 steps.

If your cat was not properly treated against fleas and introduces fleas and ticks to your home you have a growing problem of flea infestation. Fleas and ticks breed fast. You need to start Killing cat fleas and ticks in your home quickly. To get rid of fleas and ticks you must do the following:

Keep your cat away from you. If you have just discovered the existence of fleas and ticks on your cats, then quarantine your cat or cats to one spacific room. 

This must be done in order for all cat fleas and ticks to stay in one room, and avoid spreading into the rest of the house. You’ll be killing fleas and ticks and don’t want new ones jumping off your cat or onto your cat to continue your flea infestation. 

Don’t worry, soon you’ll be able to let your little kitty or adult cat (once it is free of fleas) again into the rest of your home.

If fleas and ticks invade the rest of your home, this will cause a flea infestation and you may need to flea-bomb your home or even call in some flea exterminators to do the job. Make sure you vacuum-clean your entire home in order to get rid of any fleas and ticks who may be crawling on the floors or furniture. Fleas and Ticks mostly like to hide in furniture and carpets and on cats and dogs. Use a Flea and Tick Spray- it is advisable to use flea & tick repellant to kill fleas in your house. 

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A good flea and tick spray will get rid of any hiding fleas and ticks. 

Natural flea and tick control work sometimes just as good as commercial flea killers do. If you are environmently aware or do not like to use pesticides, you might consider using a natural flea and tick control sprays. Make sure to clean and spray your bedroom and other rooms very well. All wardrobes must be thoroughly washed and checked. If the flea and/or tick infestation is bad you might need to flea-bomb your home. Clean carpets from fleas and ticks. Fleas may be hiding in or under the rugs and mats. If you have any rugs or carpets, then shake all of them outside, and vacuum them as well. Treat them with an anti-flea shampoo or a flea treatment for carpet solution. 

Rinse and disinfect all your clothes long and well, lest any fleas or ticks be hiding inside of them as often is the case. You may also want to spray your clothes incase the cat’s fleas have planted their flea larvae inside of them. 

Place teddies or toys after they are dry in an air-tight bag for at least 5 days to 2 weeks.
Repeat steps 1-5 after a couple of days.

When using commercial flea and tick killer sprays or flea powders, make sure to ventilate your home properly and not breath in the poison or get it on your food. Close food containers and once done, clean out surfaces you use for eating or preparing meals from potential flea killer residue.

Hopefully this helps you get rid of fleas and ticks from your home!

For further information on killing cat fleas and ticks and finding the best offers on flea tick killer products visit http://CatLovingCare.com

CatCamille is an acomplished writer on the bigest article sites on the web! Follow her on twitter: http://twitter.com/CatsCamille
or read what she has to say on catlovingcare.com
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Fleas are a significant concern that all pet owners eventually have to contend with. Everyone who has a pet has probably gone through the overwhelming job of having to rid their dog of fleas, a job that has often been shown to be more trying than it looks.

Fleas aren’t merely a problem because they harass and cause hours of aggravating scratching and itching for the animal, but they may also lead to additional significant problems like tapeworm infestations, flea bite dermatitis and in acute instances, anemia.

Due to their startling resistance, fleas are inconceivably tough to control. A female flea might lay over 2,000 eggs over the span of her existence, this implies that an infection may come promptly and the eggs that were laid might last for a number of months in the natural environment while just awaiting a suitable victim. Thus it’s integral to eliminate both the fleas on your pet in addition to the fleas inhabiting the pet’s living area. The perfect spots to search for fleas are carpets, sand, rugs and bed linens.

How to Get Rid of Fleas

To totally kill fleas on your canine and in his surroundings, it is important to know the flea’s lifecycle. There are four stages that makeup the lifespan of the flea. Similar to most insects, the fleas originates from the egg phase, develops into larva, and then matures into the pupa stage before eventually reaching the adult stage.

The Flea Egg Phase

The fleas eggs are whitish in color and are so tiny that they’re tough to recognize without using a magnifying glass. Even though the eggs are originally laid on the pet’s skin, a lot will with time fall off onto the ground to continue their lifecycle. Around 50 percent of the entire flea count is made up of eggs. Depending upon the surrounding conditions, the eggs hatch in somewhere between 2 to 4 weeks. The greater the heat and dampness in the environment, the sooner the eggs will hatch.

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The Flea’s Larva Stage

After the flea egg hatches, it passes into the larva phase where it enlarges to around 1/4 inch in length. The flea larva survive on natural waste substances and in the feces of the adult flea. They do not care for strong lights and have a tendency to take cover deep inside the present surroundings, if possible in a warm and damp place. Climate controlled homes are the idyllic surroundings for the life cycle of the flea to prosper. Outside, larva growth will only happen in damp, sheltered locations.

The Flea’s Pupa Phase

Directly upon crossing into the pupae stage, the flea pupa build a silky and tacky shielding cocoon. The chrysalis quickly structures a useful camouflage as it becomes sheltered by waste and dust. If encouraged by warmth, carbon dioxide or by manual influence, such as in a balmy and muggy location, an adult flea might appear from the cocoon in as quickly as five to ten days. Once the adult flea appears out of the cocoon, it could live for just a few days if it’s not able to find a host. Pre-emerged adult fleas may exist within the cocoon for as many as 9 months. This is noteworthy for the reason that adult fleas that still survive in the cocoon are resistant to insecticides applied to the environment and can surface a significant time after you apply insecticides in your residence.

The Flea’s Adult Phase

After the adult flea emerges from the chrysalis, it will want to promptly locate a host as it must have blood in order to live on. A few days after discovering an acceptable host, the female flea will commence to laying approximately 40 eggs per day. Adult fleas usually last up to three weeks. The whole lifecycle of the flea may possibly be brought to a close in as short as 2 to 4 weeks, or as long as 10 months contingent upon environmental climatic conditions.

Treating A Dog For Fleas

There are a lot of sprays, shampoos, powders and on the spot preparations around to divest your dog of fleas. Be certain to confer with a vet to pick the most successful and trustworthy flea pesticides for your residence and canine.

Methods For Clearing the Indoor Setting of Fleas

Most pesticides are just of use against the adult flea, but environmental pesticides are becoming more highly developed. A veterinarian can provide you flea pesticides that have insect growth regulators that will help exterminate the flea eggs and larvae. Prior to the use of any indoor insecticide, you should vacuum your carpeting and rugs to entice the pre-adult fleas to surface from their protective cocoon. Be sure to throw away the vacuum cleaner bag afterwards. You must also wash all bedding the dog has lied on.

How to Rid the Outside Area of Fleas

Concentrate on darkened, shady regions. Apply a pesticide that contains an insect growth regulator and repeat every 14-21 days for 3 to 5 treatments.

The latest skin and oral flea formulations ought to profoundly help you resolve your flea problem. With perseverance and patience, you and your dog should be free of fleas in short order!

To learn more about getting rid of dog fleas and safe and effective natural remedies of flea control, visit http://www.allnaturaldogremedies.com/preventative-care/getting-rid-of-dog-fleas.php
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A tiny insect the size of an apple seed is turning vacations into nightmares and giving U.S. travelers the willies every time they enter a hotel room. Cimex lectularius, the common bed bug, returned to American shores in the suitcases of international travelers. Over the past decade this blood-feeding parasite has been hitchhiking its way across the U.S. hidden in the luggage of millions of unsuspecting travelers. Spreading from New York City, the nation’s busiest international gateway, bed bugs have crept relentlessly across American to infest all 50 states.

Over the past few years, bed bug infestations in the U.S. have increased by 500%. Researchers cite travel as the No. 1 cause of bed bug spread and infestation. The New York City Department of Information Technology & Telecommunications recently reported a 50% increase in bed bug complaints at hotels between 2009 and 2010. In heavily infested cities in Ohio, more than 70% of hotels have battled bed bug infestations. According to the NPMA 2010 Comprehensive Global Bed Bug Study conducted in conjunction with the University of Kentucky, 67% of 1,000 pest management firms surveyed reported treating bed bug infestations at a hotel or motel in the past 12 months.

Bed bugs feed on human blood and are not attracted by dirt or filth. “Bed bugs are brought into hotels by guests; it is not a hotel sanitation issue,” the American Hotel and Lodging Association said in a statement. These insects are as likely to be found in a 5-star luxury hotel as a modest 1-star motel. And there’s the rub for travelers. A hotel room that is bed bug free one night can be infested the next. Bed bugs do not live on humans. They crawl into beds to feed, then scurry away, hiding in crevices near beds until the next meal. Suitcases and laptop computers placed on the bed make perfect hiding places for these pests. When travelers check out of an infested hotel room, a few bed bugs are likely to stow away in their luggage, creeping out at the next hotel to infest another room or, even worse, following travelers home.

The growing prevalence of bed bugs in the U.S. is no reason to swear off travel and stay home; but travelers who don’t want to bring bed bugs home with them will want to be proactive before, during and after a trip. Use this handy guide to protect yourself from bed bugs when you travel.

Before you book a hotel room
• Check Bed Bug Registry and Trip Advisor online to see if bed bugs have been reported at your preferred hotel. If you find multiple reports, choose a different hotel. A new iPhone app, Bed Bug Alert by Apps Genius in New York City, also reports bed bug outbreaks in 10 major U.S. cities.

• Call the hotel and ask how often rooms are inspected for bed bugs and whether bed bug-proof encasements are installed on the beds.

Before you leave home
• Install bed bug-proof encasements and box springs on all the beds in your home. 

• Educate yourself about bed bugs so you know what to watch for. Bed bugs are small, flat, wingless insects that feed on human blood. From cream-colored nymphs the size of a poppy-seed, bed bugs progress through 5 larval stages to become reddish brown, 1/4-inch long adults. When they feed, bed bugs leave bloody smears and black fecal dots that look like coffee grounds on bed sheets and mattresses. About 50% of people react to their bites and will exhibit itchy, red, mosquito-like bites, usually in rows or groups of three. Whitish skins shed during molting are another indication of bed bug infestation. 

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• Download and print the free New York State Integrated Pest Management Bed Bug Travelers’ Card prepared by Cornell University. This wallet-size card contains bed bug photos and information, making it a handy guide for travelers (and college students).

When you pack
• Pack a small flashlight, disposable gloves and a selection of garbage bags where they will be easily-accessible.

• Choose hard-sided luggage. Bed bugs like to hide in the seams of soft-sided luggage and prefer to lay their eggs on rough surfaces.

• You may want to spray your luggage inside and out with a permethrin-based luggage spray labeled for your particular use. Permethrin provides 2 to 4 weeks of protection against bed bugs. Do not use a house or garden sprays as they have no effect on bed bugs.

• Only pack clothing that can safely be washed in hot water and dried in a hot dryer for a minimum of 30 minutes or dry cleaned.

• Before placing into suitcase, pack clothing and other items into bed bug-proof luggage liners or sealable plastic bags like Ziplock bags. Do not use bags with slider openings as bed bugs can squeeze past sliders to infest bag contents.

When you arrive at your hotel
• Ask to inspect the room before you hand over your credit card.

• Inspect the room following the instructions below.

• If you find evidence of bed bugs, ask for another room in a different part of the hotel or move to another hotel. Do not accept a room that is next to, above or below the infested room as these are the first places bed bugs will migrate as an infestation spreads.

• Repeat the inspection procedure in your new room.

How to inspect a hotel room
• Put your luggage and possessions in the bathtub where bed bugs are least likely to harbor. Bed bugs cannot climb smooth surfaces and prefer to stay near their food source (sleeping humans).

• Put on your disposable gloves and get out your flashlight.

• Start at the bed as 80% of bed bug infestations are found in mattresses and box springs.

• Pull the headboard away from the wall. Bed bugs often harbor in this inaccessible space. If the headboard is attached to the wall with brackets, lift it up and away from the wall (ask a hotel employee for help). Use your flashlight to look for crawling bugs or fecal stains.

• Remove linens and pillows from the beds, inspecting them for bloody smears and black fecal stains.

• Inspect the mattress and box springs, especially seams and piping, for live bugs, shed skins, blood smears and fecal stains.

• Using your flashlight, check the rest of the room, including behind hanging pictures, inside and under drawers (pull drawers all the way out), upholstered furniture, around air vents and along carpet edges.

During your hotel stay
• Keep luggage on luggage racks positioned at least 4 inches from the wall or on hard furniture like a table. If you must place luggage on the floor, place it in resealable plastic bags first. Never lay suitcases or clothing on beds or upholstered furniture.

• Keep suitcases closed when not in use to keep bed bugs from crawling inside.

• Do not unpack your clothing into drawers; keep it inside your suitcase.

• Hang clothing, purses and backpacks in the bathroom or from hangers in the closet.

• Seal purchases in plastic bags.

• Place dirty clothes in disposable bed bug-proof laundry bag or sealed plastic bags.

• Keep shoes in sealed plastic bags.

• Inspect sheets and mattresses for bed bug signs every morning. Request a different room if you wake up with itchy bites or see signs of bed bugs. Some upscale hotels will launder clothing and steam-clean your luggage if bed bugs are found in your room.

When you check out
• Check each item as you pack it, as well as luggage surfaces.

• Seal suitcases in large plastic bags before putting them in your car.

When you return home
• Do not carry suitcases into your house. Unpack on a cleared floor in the garage or laundry room. If you must carry your suitcases through the house to reach the laundry room, seal them in large plastic bags to prevent bed bugs or eggs from falling off and infesting your home. Never unpack on a carpet. Dispose of all bags in an outside trash container.

• Unpack suitcase contents directly into new plastic trash bags, carefully inspecting each item as you unpack it. Dispose of all bags in an outside trash container.

• Sort laundry into trash bags, one load per bag. Even unworn clothing should be laundered. Dispose of all bags in an outside trash container.

• Carry clothes directly to washer and launder in hottest water possible (minimum 120 degrees) and dry at hottest setting for 60 minutes. Remove used bags from home immediately.

• Clothing that cannot be washed should be taken to the dry cleaners in a sealed plastic bag. Alert the cleaners that bed bugs may be present. Make certain that they dispose of all bags.

• Items that cannot be laundered should be frozen in sealed plastic bags for 2 weeks.

• Carefully inspect suitcases with a flashlight, brushing surfaces with a stiff-bristled brush to dislodge any eggs. Vacuum thoroughly and immediately dispose of vacuum bag. Store suitcases in sealed plastic bags in the garage. Never store suitcases in or near bedrooms.

• Vacuum entire house and promptly dispose of sweeper bag in the outside trash.

• For the next few weeks, inspect beds daily for bed bug signs.

What to do if bed bugs follow you home
If, despite all your precautions, you discover evidence of bed bugs in your home after traveling, immediately contact a licensed pest control company with an expertise in bed bug extermination. Bed bugs are extremely prolific insects. During its 6- to 12-month lifespan, a female bed bug can lay 500 eggs with offspring capable of reproducing within a month. Prompt treatment by a pest management professional in the early stages of infestation can save you money and prevent bed bugs from spreading through your home.

Jesse Eaton is a member of the pest professional team at ChemTec Pest Control. This New Jersey based pest control firm serves commercial and residential clients. ChemTec Pest Control is located at 186 Saddle River Road, Saddle Brook, NJ. You can reach the bed bug experts at ChemTec Pest Control at (201) 843-0780 or by email at wecare@chemtecpest.com. Please visit us on the Web at www.chemtecpest.com (http://www.chemtecpest.com).
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Difference Between Bee Pollen and Royal Jelly

Whether you’re entirely new to bee pollen or a skilled herbal and holistic therapist, you will find something of use when reading about the differences between bee pollen and royal jelly in this article.

The biggest difference, which I will touch on towards the end of the article, is that bee pollen, and specificallyNew Zealandbee pollen is a better product both nutritionally and health wise than royal jelly.

Both bee pollen and royal jelly belong to a branch of alternative therapy known as Apitherapy.

Apitherapy is the treatment and prevention of bodily ailments through the use of honey bee products. This includes bee pollen, royal jelly, beeswax, propolis, honey and bee venom.

We are going to cover two of the most popular products in this article and consider what the difference between bee pollen and royal jelly is.

What Is Royal Jelly?

Royal jelly is a secretion made from the worker bees of a honey bee colony. It is produced solely for the nutrition and development of all bee larvae up to 3 days old and for the continual development of all chosen Queen Bee larvae.

It is the constant ‘soaking’ in royal jelly that the chosen larvae do, that allows them to become Queen Bees instead of worker bees.  Hence the name royal jelly!

Royal jelly offers a range of health benefits and is considered a highly potent anti-aging product.

It is that renowned as an anti-aging product, that is commonly used in many cosmetics and toiletries that offer anti-aging effects.

This bee product is also perfectly suited for the balancing of hormonal problems such as PMT, and for increasing both libido and fertility in men and women. Because of these traits royal jelly has been considered an aphrodisiac since the ancient civilizations.

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How Does Bee Pollen Differ To Royal Jelly?

Bee pollen differs in many respects to royal jelly.

The key difference between bee pollen and royal jelly in the honey bee hive is that it is fed only to the worker bee and drone larvae over 3 days old. Thus in some aspects it is the ‘commoners’ food.

When it comes to its health benefits you will find a substantial difference to royal jelly. Bee pollen is known for its breathtaking and utterly impressive benefits to human life.

It is adept at helping with the treatment and prevention of prostate related issues in men, and many scientific research papers have agreed with this.

Bee pollen is also an excellent general prophylactic, strengthening the immune system. It allows our bodies to remain strong and provide adequate defense against common colds and flus.

The best and the biggest difference between bee pollen and royal jelly are the levels of nutrition. Bee pollen is that dense in nutrition that it contains all of the vitamins and minerals for optimal body functioning.

Due to this major abundance of vitamins, and in particular B vitamins, bee pollen is known for its energy boosting qualities. This allows you to get more done in your day, it has allowed athletes to perform better, and academics to think clearer and see problems in a whole new light.

For Bee Pollen To Be Better Than Royal Jelly, You Need The Highest Quality!

The biggest downside of Apitherapy is that its products are highly sensitive to pollution and as such need to be harvested from perfect environments for its products to be as beneficial as they can be.

There is one such place, and furthermore, one such company that can offer the highest quality bee pollens available.

The place isNew Zealand, a country famed for its low level of pollution, expansive and wondrous landscapes, wide diversity of plant life and superlative levels of air quality. Together this makes for the perfect environment to harvest bee pollen from.

The company which offers you this incredible product fromNew Zealandis Xtend Life. Only at Xtend Life will you find a product of such quality to better your life and provide you all of the remarkable benefits bee pollen has to offer.

So remember, the major difference between bee pollen and royal jelly, is that bee pollen is miraculously packed full of healthy, energy boosting, body strengthening and mind sharpening vitamins and minerals, and royal jelly isn’t.

It is this array of nutrition from quality producers such as Xtend Life, which can better your live and allow you to do, what you want to do!

Visit my page on Facts About Bee Pollen, to learn more about this amazing supplement company can help you with your energy.

Lang runs several health related websites and is advocate of healthy nutritional supplements.Discover the wonderful and natural world of Bee Pollen Supplements. 
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